Tuesday, July 18, 2017

Automotive Electronic Components

Automotive Electronic Components

Admit it or not, we all love the new creature comforts of our modern day cars, all of which have become increasingly sophisticated.  Those seat warmers in the cold of winter, the climate control in mid summer, the air suspension on those bumpy roads, the infotainment systems with integrated GPS so that we never get lost again; and the on-board video player for those times we had to patiently sit and wait in our cars for our loved ones. ECU controlled fuel injection put an end to idling the car in the morning to get it to the appropriate operating temperature. Power steering and assisted parking makes both driving and parking a breeze. ABS and traction controls ensures that your car stops and corners without incident. 

Not to mention cruise control, the increased horsepower, the additional  safety features and the overall improved spatial comforts. And the list goes on. All of this was made possible by electronics, in the name of safety. Safety in the form of Safety Restraint Systems (SRS), Front and side airbags, early crash sensors and active front seat head restraints, to  mention but a few. 


On-Board Modules

Electronic engine management systems, carputer modules, telematic systems and other electrical components constitutes a sizeable percentage of our cars, collectively affording us the aforementioned comforts and conveniences. Besides, modern cars are loaded with code; and the number of electrical components in modern cars are on the rise, constantly and consistently increasing in number, and their failure can more often than not affect our driving safety. These electronic components can easily malfunction, either due to water ingress during wet weather conditions, or due to excessive vibration due to bad road surfaces, or just through general wear and tear. Most of these components are cheap and relatively easy to repair and replace but isolating the correct one can sometimes be trying. In a nutshell, modern day cars are seriously complicated, since they are not just computers on wheels but entire computer networks on wheels. Be that as it may, it is a well known fact that computers do crash, software have glitches and networks go off-line.


How safe is safe?

But, the million dollar question remains; are these electronic devices really safe or are they as safe as the car manufactures would like us to believe they are.  How safe is it when you're overtaking on a single lane highway at 100km per hour and the car goes into 'limp mode' or the engine just switches off and refuses to restart?  How safe is it when the steering wheel airbag explodes directly into your face for absolutely no reason? Its air pressure wave that's louder than a gun, is bound to temporarily deafen you and the smoke enveloping you would certainly disorientate you. These factors can contribute to you loosing control of the car through no fault of your own or even loose your life.  

How safe is it when you suddenly and momentarily loose steering control at high speed or whilst driving in fast moving traffic when your car doesn't react to your steering direction?  Or, how safe is it when your steering wheel suddenly goes stiff when turning (temporary loss of power steering)? How safe is it when your car randomly starts to jerk and switches off on a deserted road at night? 

How safe is your VW really, considering certain Jetta, Golf and Audi A3 models are being recalled for fuel leaks that can cause potential engine fires. Case in point, German supplier Continental Automotive GmbH has been supplying fuel tank polymer flanges that crack to five OEM parts supply companies at least 11 auto makers, VW, Audi and Porsche included.  What this means is that 
there are millions of cars of all makes and models that may have leaking fuel issues as we speak.


Electrical sub systems

As mentioned above, modern cars, can have as many as 200 small embedded electronic control units, better known as  (ECUs). Each module is in fact a fully fledged computer in its own right, overseeing one subsystem. Collectively they  have several functions, ranging from controlling the engine and or transmission, to controlling the immobilizer, to controlling the air bags, to unlocking doors, to controlling the radio, to managing the ABS, to managing the cruise control and such like. 

Most of these computer modules have input switches and or input sensors that can detect variables such as temperature, air pressure, braking, steering angle, voltages. All these computers are connected to a centrally networked  CAN bus that carries constantly varying data between them, in order to manage the car as it is being driven. The upside of this, is that the car can virtually drive itself but the downside is that when some essential module does go faulty, it would most likely shuts the car down which may also turn out to become an expensive repair.

Automakers are becoming more like 
assemblers and less like manufacturers
Essential components like headlights and spark plugs, ignition leads, wiring harnesses, relays and switches  can often be the first to go, but they are more electrical than electronic. Whereas the following list of sensors and actuators are totally electronic.

Air mass sensors (MAF) - electronic
Camshaft Position sensors - electronic
Crankshaft Position sensors - electronic
EGR Valves  - electronic
Knock sensors - electronic
Lambda (oxygen) sensors  - electronic
Throttle position sensors  - electronic
Wheel speed sensors  - electronic
Ignition Coils  - electronic
Glow Plugs  - electronic
Coolant temperature sensors  - electronic
ABS  actuators  - electronic
Injection valves - electronic
Solenoid valves - electronic
Anti-theft alarm  - electronic ... and the list goes on.

Since Automobile production requires several thousands of parts, most of these parts are not manufactured by the car maker but are supplied by auto suppliers. Hence automakers are becoming more like assemblers and less like manufacturers because Auto Megasupplier's  contributions have drastically increased from about 60% in the mid '90s to above 85% in 2017.  Among these auto megasuppliers are companies like:-

Robert Bosch supplies (Gasoline and diesel systems, chassis system controls, electronics,  exhaust gas turbochargers, steering systems, starter motors and alternators,   etc), 

Draexlmaier Group (wiring harnesses,  interior systems, cockpit and door modules, etc.),

Royal Philips Electronics (Lighting, car radio integrated circuits, liquid crystal displays, etc.)

Infineon Technologies (Microcontrollers, intelligent sensors; power semiconductors, etc.)  

Hella ( Electronic & lighting components, etc.)

DuPont Automotive (polymers, elastomers, specialty chemicals, lubricants, refrigerants, etc.

SKF Automotive ( Bearings, seals, clutch assemblies, SKF Automotive drive-by-wire systems, etc.

Valeo SA (transmissions, Micro hybrid systems, etc.)  

Magneti Marelli (Lighting, powertrain transmissions, electronics, suspension systems,  shock absorbers, exhaust systems, plastic parts, etc.)

Continental AG (Instrumentation, stability management systems, chassis systems, safety system electronics, telematics, powertrain electronics, interior modules, etc.) 

Eberspaecher Holding GmbH (Silencers, catalytic converters, particulate filters, manifolds, vehicle heaters, electrical vehicle heaters, electronics, climate control systems, etc.)

CITIC Dicastal Co.  (Aluminum alloy wheels, aluminum casting parts, etc.)

Mobis North America (Chassis, cockpit & front-end modules; ABS, ESC, MDPS, airbags,  LED lamps, ASV parts, sensors, electronic control systems, hybrid car powertrains, parts & power control units, etc.)

That being said, there are so many of these components from auto suppliers that are troublesome. For example, batteries, starter solenoids, diodes and alternator voltage regulators and relays. Considering that the alternator is the heart of  your vehicle's electrical system and that the electrical load has substantially increased due to the glut of extra electronics, I would think that some manufactures would at least have a second alternator for redundancy. Even perhaps a redundant network so that an alternative data path is  available if the wiring harness goes faulty. Or even dual temperature sensors, or dual camshaft sensors, etc. It would do marvels for reliability.

Volkswagen is recalling some 766,000 cars globally for a software upgrade to their "anti-lock braking system".

Volkswagen is recalling 8.5 million diesel cars across the European Union  due to the "emissions scandal".

Volkswagen is recalling some 90,000  gasoline powered VW Beetle, VW Golf, VW Jetta and VW Passat with 1.8T or 2.0T engines sold between 2015-2016, because the rear camshaft lobe has the tendancy to unexpectedly snap-off from the camshaft resulting in "loss of vacuum to the brake booster", implying inefficient braking and an increased risk of a crash.

Volkswagen recalls some 280,000 cars for fuel leaks.

Honda recently recalled 1.2 million  from the 2013-2016 model Accords years, citing 'faulty battery sensors'.


Ford South Africa recalled 2.0-litre diesel-powered Kuga SUVs to resolve a potential "brake problem". 

Monday, July 10, 2017

VW electric fuel pump

VW electric fuel pump 

VW electric fuel pumps are troublesome and VW, Audi, Seat and Skoda cars are notorious for fuel pump problems. Fuel pump problems commonly affect the Volkswagen Polo Classic 6n, the VW Polo 9N, the VW Bora, the VW Passat, the VW Sharan, the VW Caddy, the VW Golf, the Volkswagen Touareg  and the  VW Beetle, among several other. Its effects can range from intermittent no starting to stalling whilst driving, though most clients would complaint that the car jerks and stall and then just shuts off. However it's not always the fuel pump that's to blame. 




VW fuel pump relay

The VW fuel pump relay is another culprit that goes faulty or rather its external contact terminals tend to burn. So if your car wont start, give the Fuel Pump Relay #409 (1J0 906 383 C) or #410 (6N0 906 383A) a knock or two with a screwdriver handle and should the car start, then it's most likely a bad contact on one of its 7 spade terminal. Remove the relay and see if any of its terminal pins have burnt brown. If not, the relay's internal contacts are probably faulty and needs to be replaced. One consolation is that the relay is fairly cheap and it can be bought on-line at ebay.com for as little as $15. However, a VW fuel pump price on the other hand, is ridiculously priced especially  considering I've had a clients who had to have two fuel pumps replaced in under 9000 km. I don't think they are quality pumps.

When our VW Caddy's fuel pump started to give-in, it presented itself as an occasional engine misfire when pulling away from a stop street or traffic lights. The engine misfire became progressively worse over time, so it was booked-in for a service, for spark plug replacement, oil drain and oil  filter replacement, etc.  At this time we didn't know that the engine misfire was caused by the fuel pump. The day the Caddy was returned, it drove fine for the first two hours then started to misfire as it did before, but thereafter the fuel pump started sounding like a hoover vacuum cleaner

I knew it was the fuel pump because I've heard this sound before on both a Polo 1.4 Trendline and a Jetta 1.8 which at the time turned out to be the fuel pump. Anyway, the noise from the fuel pump was really high pitched and annoying, After several hours of driving it became unbearable so the Caddy went back to the mechanic who then diagnosed the fuel pump as faulty. After the fuel pump was replaced the noise disappeared and the miss was gone as well. My friend also  encountered the "hoover vacuum cleaner" with his Caddy but after a few days it just disappeared, so now he occasionally experiences starting problems.


VW  Fuel Pump Relay 409 / 410

VW  Fuel Pump Relay Part # 1J0906383B (409) is a 12V 40A relay with 7 spade terminal connectors, 2 Wide, 2 Standard and 3 mini. The same relay is  installed in VW Polo Mk3, VW Jetta, VW Golf Mk4, VW bora,VW beetle, Audi A3, Audi  TT, Seat Leon,  Skoda Octavia,  VW Sharan and VW Passat, etc.


VW  Fuel Pump Relay Part # 6N0906383A (410) is installed in VW Polo 6N, VW Golf Mk4, VW Lupo 6X, Skoda Fabia 6Y, VW Sharan 7M, AUDI A2, SEAT Arosa, SEAT Alhambra, VW Golf GTI, VW Passat and VW Polo Mk3, etc.

Replacing a fuel pump

Remember that the VW electric fuel pump relies on fuel passing through it for both cooling and lubrication. If or when running the fuel pump dry, fuel starvation can accelerate  internal component wear and may cause  the fuel pump motor to overheat and burn out. Electric fuel pumps run from the moment the ignition is switched on, so its fairly obvious that after a few years of operation their armature bushings, gears, commutator and brushes will suffer wear and tear, causing a gradual loss of pressure. Loss of fuel pump pressure commonly causes the "EPC" light to come on. A fuel leak or an Evaporative Emission System (EVAP) leak would also turn on the "EPC" light as well as the "Check Engine" light because the low inlet manifold pressure would upset the engine's air-fuel ratio and degrade engine performance and reduce fuel efficiency.  It would also diminish  power and acceleration, and possibly even cause stalling.  So if you need to replace your VW electric fuel pump, make absolutely sure you depressurize the fuel system before disconnecting the fuel lines. The easiest way to do this is to remove the fuel cap, remove the electric fuel pump fuse or relay and crank the engine a few times. 

Faulty Fuel Pump Flanges

There is currently a VW / Audi fuel pump recall, though its not necessarily the pump that's defective but rather faulty flanges manufactured by German supplier Continental Automotive GmbH. Apparently they've been supplying VW, Audi and Porsche with flanges that seem to crack and cause fuel leaks and potential fires. Apparently Continental sold the potentially faulty flanges to eleven automobile manufacturers and five OEM parts supply companies. Audi, Ford,  Fiat Chrysler, General Motors,  Jaguar-Land Rover, Lamborghini, Mercedes-Benz, McLaren, Porsche, Volvo and VW are just some of the automakers who used these industry-standard polymer flanges but other automakers may possibly also be at risk. 

Meanwhile Volkswagen, Porsche and Audi already recalled nearly a half-million vehicles because of leaky flanges, that cover fuel tank openings and is used for the fuel pump and other items. U.S. safety regulators are currently trying to track down gas tank flanges that may crack and cause fuel leaks on what could be millions of cars of all makes and models.

Sunday, July 2, 2017

Electronic Power Control

Electronic Power Control

What Does the Electronic Power Control (EPC) Warning Light Mean?

Traditionally hand brake, accelerator pedal, clutch and bonnet release, used some sort of cable system and the steering column and gear levers used several mechanical linkages. Today virtually all these mechanical systems have been replaced by electronics in the form of sensors, feeding computers and electric motors performing as actuators. The legacy accelerator cable that controlled the throttle valve and fuel supply in the trusty old carbureter has been entirely replaced by electronics. It is now referred to as drive-by-wire (drive the car by means of electric wire control) and the EPC circuit oversees drive-by-wire system.

So what is an EPC circuit?

EPC stands for Electronic Power Control (EPC) and is a sub circuit of the car's computerized engine management system better know as its ECU which stands for Electronic Control Unit or  Engine control Unit. The EPC circuit uses the input signal supplied by the accelerator position senders and  the throttle angle senders to calculates how much engine power the driver requires. The EPC system also receives input signals from other systems on the car, like the stability and cruise control systems and translates this data into engine torque by means of the actuators.

The EPC circuit also monitors these components at start up and whilst driving and should it detect any malfunction, it will readily illuminate the EPC warning light . The EPC light is a bright yellow/amber instrument cluster light displaying the letters EPC. But it's just a 'Indicator Symbol light' that  informs the driver that an issue occurred in the torque system. Some faults within the EPC circuit will more than likely disable other functions on your vehicle that may even cause it to go into limp mode and not rev or perform very sluggishly.

EPC Warning Light

Since the EPC is a sub circuit of the ECU which supervisors several other systems on the vehicle, it is likely that other warning lights my also illuminate  on the instrument cluster. For example the Check Engine Light (CEL) may illuminate to indicate that the engine itself isn’t operating at normal efficiency. At the same time the stability and cruise control will be disabled and their respective lights may turn on as well.  

When this happens, you will need to have your car scanned for diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) or you could do it yourself if you have an appropriate scanner. Once the error codes are identified, it would be relatively easy to repair / replace the component responsible, and thereafter clear the fault codes. The illuminated lights should all turn off and the car should once again drive as per normal.

Is it safe to drive with the EPC light on?

Many people inquire  whether or not it safe to drive with the EPC light on? In my humble opinion, I would say,  Yes it is safe to drive with the EPC light on, because the EPC light is an abler light and not a red light. Red lights dictates that you shouldn't  drive the car at all, until the problem causing the red light to illuminate is repaired. Whereas an amber light is just an information sign. One can equate dashboard lights to road signs, for example if a red traffic light or a red stop sign with white-background  or other red and white regulatory sign is blatantly disobeyed, it will more likely than not result in harm or injury. Round red and triangular red road signs are warning signs and means danger. Also any sign with a white background signifies the sign is permanent  whereas a sign with a yellow background signifies that the sign is temporary and any square /diamond shaped orange/amber signs are used for roadway works information and guidance.

So return to the subject at hand, yellow/amber lights are therefore informative and temporary. However when the EPC light is on and the car goes into limp mode then its not safe to drive with the EPC light on, because you will be going dead slow and be an obstruction to other motorists. Limp mode is just a shortened form for limp home mode which is  an operating mode set by the vehicle's on-board  computer which is pre-programmed by the manufacturer. This program limits  your vehicle throttle in order to protect the engine or the car itself or its occupants from harm or injury and the car should only be driven to take it for  repairs.


As can be seen, the four signs on the right are red with the top two including white
whereas the four signs on the left are all yellow  which is informative and temporary. 
However the severity of the EPC problem can vary greatly and the vehicle may not be operable at all.  Common cause of  car’s EPC circuit malfunctioning are its sensors. Replacement normally solves the problem, however EPC faults can register intermittently to the point of frustration. In such cases it's very likely the wiring harness are intermittently faulty especially where the plugs connect to the sensors. If your engine suddenly shuts off while driving, you may want to look at the Engine speed sensor. The  crank shaft rotation sensor also commonly fail, when starting the car's engine while stationary. A tell tale sin is that the  the engine switches off after two second of idling. 

The brake light switch is yet another  EPC light trigger and is solved by replacement. This switch is a double pole double trow switch and isn't physically associated with the brake other than the same switch is used. On automatic vehicles brake switch failure locks the gear lever in Park and prevents  from selecting any other gear. The Mass air flow sensor is another common cause of EPC problems but in many cases it's not the MAF itself. It may be due to minor cracks in the rubber hoses that causes air to be sucked in, upsetting ECU calculations. The Throttle body and its angle sensors and drive motor is another is also another EPC problem child.